At any time of the day you’ll hear from disgruntled loyalists who should and shouldn’t be wearing what, all on the basis of perceived level of Hypebeast-ness.
For few days I’ve posted my OOTD on Instagram with this Gosha’s T-Shirt and received many different kind of messages, what made me feel a bit confused and surprised at the same time.
It was a Sunday morning and I’ve planned a shooting to present the sky blue Picard’s bag from the new SS17 collection. I also ordered the shoes in same color to make a perfect combination, but they’re still on the way. So I had to grab my Huaraches and Gosha’s T-Shirt very spontaneous – black and white is always a great option and this Russian flag has also sky blue stripe, so I was pretty happy.
Gosha Rubchinskiy’s graphic pieces are instant sellouts all over the globe, but to everyone outside the Russian-speaking world, the messages behind them are unknown. That’s probably part of the designer’s allure – the cyrillic lettering used throughout Gosha’s imagery is familiar and at the same time completely alien. It’s hard to imagine it being so attractive to Western viewers if it was in the regular old Latin alphabet.
Rubchinskiy’s work – both in clothing and in photography – is concerned with two subjects: Russia and youth. His graphics reference myriad parts of his country’s culture and history, while he enlists an ever-expanding gang of young associates, many of whom he finds through Instagram, to star in his shows, lookbooks and photography. Gosha’s work is reflecting the mindset of young people in the age of social media and instant communication, and at the same time championing a new vision of Russia – one that’s young, exciting and beautiful.
Followers of streetwear are a very different beast than the often novelty-obsessed high-fashion acolytes. It will take more than wearing the right clothes and being photographed in the right places to truly make an impact. Dedicated collectors and (sometimes) near-rabid Stans associated with streetwear culture aren’t looking for the next it-girl.
Instead, value is placed on knowledge of the product, an understanding of product history, and in many ways, exclusivity. It’s a different type of exclusivity than that associated with a storied fashion house. Where many high-end designers see their exclusivity anchored to a sense of elitism, and to an extent social stratification, streetwear’s elitism often appears to be knowledge-based. With streetwear, a product isn’t special purely because only a small fraction of people can afford it; it’s special because of the pain of acquisition. Remaining in the loop about limited-edition pieces and new drops comes largely from being plugged into a community of like-minded people, and knowing where to look or who to ask. The culture surrounding streetwear is part of what makes it unique.
Tshirt: Gosha Rubchinskiy | Bag: Picard